Back to the Creek

Last week I met Ben and Dodge while climbing at Super Crack Buttress while climbing with Graham. I befriended them setting intentions to reconnect in the following week when I returned to the Creek solo. Yesterday, I arrived in the creek early as the moon set on the west horizon while the sun burst over the mountains in the east greeting the day. I rolled up to their campsite to a peaceful setting, parking my RAV allowing me to assemble my kitchen to make some coffee in my fantastic set up provided by my dear friends Nicole and Kevin.

Moon setting over the western horizon as I drove into the Creek.

Settling into my new spot for the week, movement started to arise from the two vans I had parked next to. As Ben and Dodge emerged from their vehicles, we talked over coffee to plan out the day ahead of us.

We decided to head to Reservoir Wall to hop on a few classics that I have had my eyes set on. We warmed up on two climbs, the first one with 3 cracks, varying in different widths that seemed to cater to all of our different hand sizes. The second climb mostly #3’s which is an uncomfortable fist for my style climbing (seeing that my hand size is a little smaller than your average male). I was happy to follow up this burly climb to work on my fist jamming technique through the varying roofs, while lie backing and grunting past the wider sections.

Ben leading up the first wide section on Will-Mento (5.10)

After feeling good and ready, I took the lead on one of my hardest climbs so far, Slot Machine going at 5.11+. Oh and it’s 160’, so I got a good challenge in my endurance training. The climb goes from an interesting blocky section protected by a bolt, into the ever-famous dihedral, in which it gets its name. With a small crack joining the two sides of the wall that allowed me to try and squeeze my fingers to pull my body as my feet pasted against the slightly featured walls. The protection was great but the climb definitely put me through the ringer. It took some time to figure out the beta however getting to the top section felt amazing to get to the splitter crack that widened to almost perfect hands.

Moving over blocks into the start of the Slot Machine (5.11+)

With little time left after Ben and Dodge followed up the climb, I gave a belay as Ben on sighted Penté, another endurance burning splitter hand crack.

With the sun setting on the horizon, we opted to head back down to camp seeing as none of us had planned on bringing a headlamp to the crag.

Getting back to camp we quickly split up to our home set ups to make a well-deserved dinner to quench our screaming tummies. Once we had satisfied our hunger, we started making plans for the day to come. We set our alarms for 6:00am so we could set out of the Creek, heading back into Moab to get our first taste of a desert tower.

Sun setting over the Creek from Reservoir Wall.

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